Buying Your First SLR

Lets take a quick break from learning about exposure and talk about buying a camera.  The number one question I get from people is, "What camera should I buy?"


People who know a lot about photography looove to overcomplicate this question. While it's true that people have different needs and no single camera is right for everyone, its pretty easy to point someone in the right direction.

The fact is, if you're interested in taking up photography as a hobby and you ask me (or anyone else) what camera to buy, the unspoken part of that question is: "I don't know that much about photography yet, but I really want to learn.  I need a camera that will let me take pictures like the pros once I learn how to use it, and something I won't grow out of later on.  I also need something affordable since I'm just getting started and not 100% sure whether I'll stick with it or not.  What camera should I buy?"


The answer is: an entry-level DSLR kit.  DSLR stands for "digital single lens reflex" camera, just in case you were wondering.  What that means doesn't really matter, its honestly just trivia so I'm skipping it for now.  Also, when I say "kit" I mean it comes with a lens.  We'll get to that in a second though.

Ok, so there are basically 4 entry-level DSLRs on the market today that I would seriously consider:

1. The Nikon D3000
2. The Canon Rebel XS (or XSi)
3. The Sony Alpha A230
4. The Pentax K-x

In many ways they are very, very similar.  They all cost between $400 - $550.  They all have between 10 -12 megapixels (which is more than enough for anyone).  They all go up to at least ISO 1600.  They all have some form of vibration reduction which helps avoid "camera shake" at slow shutter speeds.  They all have maximum shutter speeds of 1/4000th of a second (which is fast enough for anyone).  They have all the exposure modes, metering modes and about every other type of setting or feature we will talk about.  You can take incredible pictures with any one of these cameras.

So how do you choose?

Well, as general consideration, try to think of this purchase as buying into a camera system, not just buying one particular camera.  The great thing about DSLR's is they have interchangeable accessories such as lenses, flashes, etc.  Once you start investing in a certain brand you're not just going to chuck all your old equipment and start over with another company.  You'll buy new lenses and accessories over time, and eventually when you're ready to upgrade or replace your current camera body, you'll buy a new camera of the same brand so it will be compatible with all your current lenses and accessories.

So what are these brands good at?  Nikon is famous for its lenses and accessories, while Canon is known for intuitive menus and great color rendering.  Pentax is a long-time maker of very popular entry-level SLRs aimed at students.  Sony has a lot of experience making image sensors and quality electronics in general.

Like I said above, these cameras have most of the same features and specifications in common, so here's a few reasons why you might choose one over the others.

Nikon D3000.  On paper it doesn't have anything the other cameras don't have, except a slightly larger LCD screen on the back.  However, it is a Nikon.  I know from experience that Nikon's 18-55mm lens is tack sharp, surprisingly holding its own against many of their more expensive products.  With this camera you're really buying into the Nikon system, and you basically have limitless room to grow with access to the best lenses and accessories in the business (OK, that's more of a personal opinion, but I'm not the only one who thinks so).  On the down side, it is the most expensive of the four cameras, but hey, you get what you pay for sometimes.

Canon Rebel XS.  Same specs as the Nikon on paper, and similar reasons to buy it.  You're buying into the Canon system, and as much as it pains me to admit, they have a huge variety of quality accessories also.  Canon also has very user friendly menus and, in my opinion, excellent color rendering.  I've seen these on sale recently for $500 with the lens included.

Sony Alpha A230.  Higher maximum ISO than the Nikon or Canon (3200 max instead of 1600).  That's a full stop, which honestly matters sometimes, and is a point in Sony's favor.  Also the cheapest of the group at $400.  I don't know if the build quality would be quite as good as the Nikon or Canon, and there aren't quite as many accessories available, but there's definitely everything you would reasonably ever expect to use.  If price is a serious concern, I'd pick this camera.

Pentax K-x.  Highest maximum ISO of all four cameras at a whopping 12,800 (that's 3 full stops above both the Canon and Nikon, 2 stops above the Sony)!  Also has HD video capability, and slightly higher resolution at 12 megapixels (all the others are 10).  It also one of the few cameras that still runs on AA batteries, which can sometimes be an advantage since they are available everywhere.  At $460 its in the middle of the pack on price.  The only disadvantage is doesn't appear to be self-cleaning like the other 3 cameras.

So what's my verdict?  If you don't have a brand preference, I would pick the Pentax K-x.  Its the most bang for your buck and has specs and features you'd expect in a much more expensive camera.  

However, if you really want to have unlimited room to grow, I might go Nikon or Canon.  The fact is they are the gold standards of the camera industry, and you know you are getting a quality product backed by decades of experience.  They have much larger lineups of cameras, lenses and accessories than either Sony or Pentax, and you're simply never going to outgrow their product lines.

If price is a big deal, and your wife or husband is sweating you about how much cash you're trying to blow on camera gear, pick up the Sony.  Its the most value-oriented choice, and you're not going to be missing out on anything, its still a fantastic camera.

Aaaaand DONE!  Is that enough info for you?  So now, go buy your camera, you kinda need one of those to learn photography!

Metering Mode pt. 2 - Center-Weighted and Spot Metering

OK, so yeah, I've been gone for a month.  Not out-of-town gone, more the wife-had-surgery-work-went-bananas-at-the-same-time type of gone.  But regardless, I'm back, and we need to continue our photo education, so lets get to it.

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In the last post we talked about matrix metering, which involves some pretty complex decision making on the part of the camera.  Now let's get into center-weighted and spot metering modes, which are much simpler and more predictable.

Center-weighted metering behaves the most like the classic "average luminance" metering we discussed in the first post on metering.  There is one difference however.  As implied by the name, center-weighted metering cares more about the center of the frame than the edges.  When I say the center, I mean a circle or oval taking up about 50-70% of the frame (the actual area being measured depends on your camera).  Center-weighted metering will suggest exposure settings that render this circle / oval area a medium gray, with some minor consideration given to very dark or very bright areas at the periphery of the frame.

There are two great thing about center-weighted metering:

1. It's predictable.
2. It prioritizes the center of the frame (where your subject tends to be located a lot of the time).

Center-weighted metering is good in situations where the center of the frame needs to be properly exposed and the edges don't matter.  For example, a portrait where the sun is setting right behind your subject, or a still-life shot of a leaf, sitting in a pool of light on the otherwise dark forest floor.  Makes sense right?

Now let's move on to spot metering.  Spot metering only measures a tiny portion of the frame (normally 2-5% of the total image area).  This spot is always in the center of the frame, although in some newer professional cameras it is possible to move the spot around.  Spot metering will suggest exposure settings that will make the object inside the spot appear a perfect 50% medium gray.

The two advantages of spot metering are:

1. It's almost perfectly predictable.
2. You can meter very small areas of the frame separately from each other.

Spot metering is good if you need a very precise meter reading for one tiny portion of the image and want to ignore everything else.  Now remember, when you spot meter an object it's going to give you exposure values that will make that object medium gray.  If you're spot metering a light-toned object you'll have to overexpose compared to the meter reading.  If you're spot metering a dark object, you'll need to underexpose it somewhat.  Spot metering also works great with auto-exposure lock, another feature we will come to shortly.